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Poole Harbour

21 April 2013 1,842 views No Comment

friday

Richmond, Carluccio’s • decent drive London – M3 – south coast • hotel-is-ok-relief • Grand Hotel Swanage, it’s traditional but not musty • sea view; PROPER sea view • Swanage is on the west of Poole Harbour, it’s the first of the creamy coastal beaches in the scone-n-tea gorgeous Dorset coastline • head down to the beach for dusky walk. the light is incredible. it drizzles and there’s a rainbow • walk to the east end of the beach • find a photo 2bar-bistro in the middle of the beach perfect for a beer • walk to the west end of the beach (after a beer) • the town is small, waterfront, fine, good, the pier is closed, the sailing club is fun, the cliffs are beautiful • as we’ve walked around the bay we’ve seen a gig (we saw the word ‘gig’ on a club notice board) going back & forth, back & forth. it looks like different people each time which is funny • 6 people rowing, one coxing/ shouting/ hanging. my ‘joke’ is that the boat is powering the town – they go back and forth to make sure everyone has power. just me • back to the bistro-bar, Bull & Boat, for a smashing dinner. Nad: potted duck, then canoed sea bass with caponata. stop press you want to know what canoed means don’t you… the sea bass is ‘arranged’ like a canoe with the caponata in it. now that may make sense, but personally i was upset, i wanted canoed like, caught-in-a-canoe • Lucy: scallops and cauliflower puree, then salmon with samphire and mussels. it was unreal • wine. yes. whiskey back at the hotel. yes. sleep. ya ha •

saturday

wake nice and early (yay!) • down to the beach, run for Nado, yoga for LJ • it’s a stunning day. crystal clear skies. lapping waves. shiny shiny. cool, fresh air • breakfast: croissants, fruit, boiled eggs, kippers, toast, tea & coffee, innit • Make A Plan • sort stuff, car, drive to Wareham which is a market town on the coastal river, oh gosh, it’s really lovely • hire kayaks • if you know anything about me, i am now clearly in heaven :) • we paddle up stream, winding round, passing cute boats and impressive riverside houses • we’re taking layers off, we’re putting layers on. it’s a beautiful day, warm in the sun, cool in the shade, photo 2we’re working up some heat but there’s also a good breeze • paddle down stream, towards the ocean • ah, the paddling is nice • but. i’m hungry. i want a little sandwich • we’ve paddled a lot down river and it’s super smashing nice • then we turn around and, faaaar out, the current is stronger (d’ya, obviously, but it was like, a lot stronger) • back • the Granary House on the riverside for lunch • beer and sandwiches • back to the hotel • bits n bobs but mostly a good sleep on the hotel lawn. delicious • upstairs, showers, change, beach, promenade, bus. stop press, Nad on a bus??? • it’s an open top bus though. how cool is that. the regular bus is open top! • the journey is brilliant fun, great views of the harbourside landscape, lots of reeds and low trees, heaps of mustard-yellow gorse. and lots of low hanging branches and dancing twigs to contend with our heads as we bomb along the country lanes • hop off at the ferry • hang by the quay • breezy car ferry ride to the other side • Haven Hotel for a pint. the waterfront bar has floor to ceiling windows curving around 270 degrees, maximising the sea view, the sunset and the horizon. it feels like we’re on a boat • taxi into Poole Quay • in a very short walk we saw nine pubs and two groups of fancy dress. messy • coupla pints in the King Charles. it’s really local. good stuff • Hotel du Vin. beautiful, ivy creeping building, huge flag stone floor. Nad: prawn & crayfish cocktail, then steak & garlic butter • Lucy: scallops, then sea bream en papillote with carrots & potatoes • everything melt in the mouth gorgeous • Bourgogne, yes. Japanese whiskey & calvados, yes. espresso, mais oui • taxi home • super fun. perfect day. zzz.

sunday

wake later than yesterday (yay!) • breakfast, sunny ocean view, Sunday Times :) • pack, change, check out • head for cliff top walk • like yesterday, it’s warm, then it’s breezy, then it’s boiling, then it’s cool, then it’s direct sunshine, then it’s chilly. waaa. but mostly it’s trific and the walk is awesome • head through the fields at the top of Swanage beach, follow the footpath up right onto the cliffs, the view is unreal • grass and gorse blowing behind us, blue blue bay rippling in front of us with dinky photo 4sailing boats building the courage to head to sea • work our way towards Harry Rocks – rock stacks that have separated from the mainland. this is called the Jurassic coast, and it makes sense as you prowl around the chalky coastline • there are steep, steep edges that i crawl to look over. waaa, it really is mega proper steep, i’m too scared to even try spitting! • there’s a nice bit where it looks like god took a cake knife and sliced a big semi-circle out of the cliff. it’s beautiful • the girls have rowed the Swanage gig all the way out here, and the local lifeboat is bobbing by the cliff too • from the cliffs we went through the bushes to Studland beach. it’s about a kilometre long. a low, wide sandy stretch with baby waves lapping across the shells & seaweed • Studland cafe. it’s busy & family fun • walk along Studland beach and then Shell Bay. it’s us and what seems like most of Dorset. including the naturist community (thanks for that) • we’re back at the car ferry and we get back on the same bus service as yesterday to head home • pick up the car • drive to Corfe for lunch. we’re on the same trajectory as the steam engine. photo 3it’s under the bridges we’re on, it’s by the road, and then we shoot down a side road to get a really good view. it’s a proper little choo choo train • The Castle Inn in Corfe is cute & quirky, and a real community pub – they have a raffle for the village school while we’re there. they work hard to source almost 100% of their ingredients locally and are hosting a local food weekend to really drive the point. the three roasts on offer for today are John Henderson’s beef, Paul Griggs’s pork, and Shaun Tilley’s lamb (names may not be 100% accurate) • Nad: oysters, then venison pie & vegetables • Lucy: bread & olives, then mussels • Check it, even the olives and coffee were local (and very delish) • chess. chess fail. chess sucks • time to go. we head out of Poole, out of Dorset and make an unscheduled visit to Nad’s friends for a smashing evening of wine & chat • perfectly lovely weekend

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