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evening surf

14 October 2010 1,675 views 2 Comments

Popped over to Freshie for a surf this evening. It was gorgeous there – it was gorgeous along all of the north shor / northern beaches – and I piled into the ocean for my first non-wetsuit surf this season. Let’s say up front, it was still fresh, and evening may not have been the best time to trial this, but it was fine.
There were some smashing waves. Not heaps, just a few smashing ones.
I caught most of the ones I wanted to until my feet went so numb I couldn’t feel them and actually fell over on my board, which was hilarious.

But before that I reckon I was a rockstar ;) at one point I did that thing where you bounce on your board to get further ‘in’ to the wave. OK, so nice move that I did that but I think I was probably riding white wash at the time – loser. Ah well. Fun as ever. And an excuse to crack a bottle (3) and chat about the evening’s achievements…

2 Comments »

  • Jess E James said:

    Nice, best part of Sydney where we live.. we will have to get a lot more surfing in this summer so you can be a Manly Surfer Babe.
    Bower and Deadmans, here we come..

  • Jess E James said:

    oh and i agree with the no spam policy. Terrible stuff. Anything processed is totally disgusting but would you even call spam ham?

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