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surfing – season ii

22 September 2010 1,292 views No Comment

Following last season’s finale in Bali it was time to get back ‘on the bike’ and see what I’d lost over the winter.

Obviously I was going all mental in my head about surfing again. I practised on the beach and OMG (cheerleader voice) I was rubbish: you could see on the sand that I was dragging and not landing my feet, putting my hands in the wrong places, blah blah.
In to the surf… sweet relief (and honestly I said this out loud to myself), I still loved it. The paddling was awesome, crashing the waves was fun, anticipating the ride was, er, terrifying. So I piled into my first wave and, yeah, I stacked it and was a heap in the water, but I’d gone for it and had a good time. Which is a good point to say, I’d put this moment off for about four months…

Anyhoo… I carried on, paddling, crashing, spitting, chattering to myself. Until I got asked to leave the water by the lifeguard. I’m like (cheerleader voice again) what? According to Jay-26-from-Avalon (forward slash wherever) “you’re sweeping right out into that patch of white water, can you see it? If you keep going over there you’re gonna get dragged out, and then I’ll have to come and get you, and I don’t want to, it’s cold.”

So that was pretty embarassing. I carried my board over to where he said I should surf more and hoped that I wouldn’t make more of a d!ck of myself. Keep hoping… I got swept in the opposite direction, towards another rip, I caught waves too close to the shore and Jay motioned for me to go deeper out, and I managed to trip over my zip strap – how, how is this possible?? they design them to be the right length to stay out of the way.

The good news, I stood up all the times that I wanted to. I didn’t stay standing for too long, oh, actually, at the end, I did some good long ones, but mostly it was up, yeee, crash. Generally, I was glad I hadn’t completely lost my skills and that I still loved it. This is going to be a really fun summer.

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