Double Six Beach
first surf
Bintang
morning surf
Kuta
Jimbaran
surfing progress
conclusions

Wednesday

departure 

I had the morning working from home which was a relief because 1) I was hungover 2) Jess came and did some DIY! 3) I still needed to pack. Did a few hours work, then off to the airport; Sydney International departure lounge seems to look different everytime I’m there at the moment. Flight was fine: slept, woke up to drink 3 (mini) bottles of red wine and eat a family bag of pretzels, then slept again.

arrival routine

On arrival Bali was hot and disorganised but it was quite compact so I soon found my driver. The area around the airport didn’t exactly make a great impression (what country does) and it was odd because there were no big, wide roads – straight on to little dusty lanes. I was hoping my hotel was far away…

It was far away enough and right on the beach.  I got upgraded, room all fine, and was in the bar with beer & pizza around 13 minutes after checking in, my ‘new country-first night’ routine donchya know.

Thursday

buffet routine

I woke up at 6, 7 and 8am, and each time was tempted to get up, go for a walk or run but I forced myself to stay in bed. Up eventually I got a quick shower and straight to breakfast which was – uh oh – a buffet. As usual, I embarrassed myself with piles of food and then I hung out for a bit, reading and so on.

You know what was going on here… I was procrastinating about the surf. I procrastinate a lot before sport (I sit at work in my running gear for half an hour at least before finally running home!?) plus I was all nervous about it being a new place, new waves, new board blah blah, you name the excuse, I had it! One thing I had wondered before coming was how it would work out hiring a board etc. Yeah, no need to worry…

Kuta & Legian beaches

I hit the beach and it was spot on: non stop sand as far as I could see, non stop beach break with a lot of white wash, sun loungers & umbrellas set up everywhere, and all shapes, sizes & styles of surf boards leaning up against the trees. Hurrah, nice and straight forwards. I got approached immediately by someone trying to flog a board so I got a start figuring out how much things should be which was handy. Then I walked up the beach.

There were lots of people around on the beach and in the water. And it was HOT; I mean crazy, sweating, steaming. I kept stopping along the way, mostly to linger in the shade but also to watch the waves and the surfers. I was feeling increasingly nervous. Why, why does this happen..? I mean I know I can handle a board, and swim, and negotiate with hawkers, and spend time alone, but here I was going all mental in my head! So I kept walking, saw several lifesavers with red & yellow uniforms just like mine!

Double Six Beach

I stopped by a surf school and hung out for a bit seeing what waves the newbies were catching and how they got on. It was a nice spot so I sat on a sunbed (R50) and kicked back for a bit. It was so relaxing so I just lay flat reading, pondering and generally wondering why I was such a loser. After I’d had enough of that I went in the water for the first time, it was SO warm, but – am I spoilt in Australia? – there was a lot of rubbish floating around. Now that I’d got wet I went and spoke to a little dude about hiring a board and, guess what, he had the exact same board as mine at home! But he wouldn’t hire it out, only with lessons. Clearly unhappy about not getting my own way (!) I tried a few more little dudes and on my 3rd attempt found a nice foam board to hire (R50). It was a bit shorter & wider than mine so I felt I was being very adaptable! Actually I realised that this beach hiring thing could be really good for me cos I would have to try different boards which is important because eventually I have to stop using my lovely foamie and get into the real world with a hardboard, then a shortboard etc.

first surf

The waves were wicked but it took me a while to get the hang of them. There were two breaks, both of them nice and crumbly (what I’m used to) but really powerful, which is good for catching but bad for getting out. The back set was a bit much for me so I mostly stuck to the front ones. Although I was struggling with getting out as time went by I noticed that a lot of other people were doing the same as me and walking out quite far, not paddling all the way like in Australia so I didn’t feel like I was being a complete wuss. I must say, actually, the thing about the rubbish in the water was so true, I was literally scooping stuff when I paddled, gross.

I caught a couple of beauties; and, of course, I didn’t catch a lot and got smashed etc as usual. Also, as usual, I loved every second. Somewhat unexpectedly I did a lot of ‘blind surfing’: between the sun glare, salt, water, suncream in my eyes I could hardly see and my hair was plastered over my face a lot. There were a couple of good ones though where I stood up and managed to have enough balance to actually do my hair while surfing.

Also my board shorts came off immediately! The zip broke some time ago and I thought they might stay on with the popper, but no, first wave, they were cutting loose. So I took ‘em off, chucked them on the beach, a guy walking past saw and lobbed them further away for me, so kind!

surf #2

I have this pattern with surfing where after a while (typically 60 minutes) I’ll feel I’m getting tired, or like I’ve had enough, but I also don’t want to give up. And then something will happen that makes me call it a day, usually I hurt myself. Sure enough, I pulled my arm/shoulder a bit hard so I called it, and sure enough I’d been out an hour. I left my board with the little dude and got some food – a whole pineapple peeled and serrated on the core to eat – and sat back on my sun lounger. Then I got my board back and went for another ride. The tide had gone out a bit so it was definitely all about the closest set, and all about not crashing off the front (head first in to the shallow water). I got all beaten up and this time called I a day when I damaged my foot.

sunset

Later I walked up the same beach, going as far north as Seminyak. It was nice, passing by the different beach resorts, seeing how different the beach was in the evening to the daytime. As the tide went out and the sun dropped the beach got busier: boys playing football, families out, backpackers drinking. And the waves were still beautiful.

Eventually I stopped and got a beer on a rooftop terrace to catch the last of the sunset. And it was a stunning sunset: all different shapes of cloud, shades of pink, coral, orange and then the gorgeous blue, greys and silvers, and the horizon seemed so far away, honestly it was like the world got bigger.

Bali flavours

The local beer in Bali is Bintang (you see vests with the logo!) it comes in massive 500ml, dripping bottles and y’know what, I reckon it’s pretty good.

One of my travelling theories is that, no matter where you go, or how long for, you’re always going to have one rubbish, tourist meal. No matter how local you try to be, how hard you try, it will happen… So I accepted that and went to the restaurant next door for a completely fine but unexceptional Nasi Goreng (Indonesian rice dish with shrimp and egg).

OK, so I have a confession, I then sat, drinking more Bintang and reading the Economist. I ask you, who reads the Economist after their first day in the surf in Bali..? I walked home – I’d walked over 15K in flip flops today! – applied a ridiculous amount of aftersun, and slept…

Friday

Today I got up a bit earlier and was in the surf by 8. The waves were good, they seemed less energetic than yesterday although the water was still crusty with rubbish and I was massively blind because along with everything else (salt, suncream blah blah) I was still waking up. I took in more of the view though, looking back from my board, and could see the hills and volcanoes on the island, it was cool.

breaking the rules

The board I had this morning was plastic so quite different to what I’ve used before. Because the waves were a bit ‘less’ I got more paddling in which I love, and I did catch some luvlies, and I got bashed too. Two amusing things happened:

I have read about ‘dropping in’, where a surfer takes a wave right in front of someone else. Apparently it’s one of the most annoying things about newbies and today I ‘dropped in’ on someone for the first time, completely innocently, and it was a sixish year old kid. The scathing look I got from him was bad; and his dad didn’t look too impressed. Obviously I apologised & smiled a lot. Then – when I saw how many waves he was catching – I thought, bollox, this kid catches waves here all the time and has done since he could walk, I’m trying, trying to learn, give me a break (literally).

I have also read that there is surfer lore in Hawaii that if a boy and girl catch the same wave then they get ‘down’ in the sand together afterwards as well. So, imagine, my, erm, concern when I was riding this pretty good wave and my board was quite literally mounted by some bloke’s board. Since the mounting was not in fact intentional we wiped out pretty quickly and then we exchanged ‘hellos’ and nationalities before I paddled away. Let’s just say that wasn’t happening…!

Can’t remember why I called it a day, just hungry or tired perhaps, I don’t recall an injury. I had a quick shower and got ready then hit the buffet breakfast, same embarrassing portion control as yesterday. Actually did I mention the fruits? They have yellow watermelon but it’s a bit sweeter. And this hard fruit that looks like a chestnut when you peel it but has a sort of citrus, sour taste, couldn’t decide if I liked that or not.

Kuta

Next thing was I needed to go shopping for boardies cos yesterday really was D Day for my current ones, in the water at least. I’d heard that the streets off ‘my’ beach area were where the retail action was. I was staying just north of Kuta. Kuta and Legian beaches are the good ones for surfing but Kuta ‘town’ (where I was now heading) doesn’t have an amazing repurtation. And, yeah, it wasn’t overly impressive: heaps of average shops & bars, traffic and a lot of tourists. The Magalluf of Bali. I tried to do my shopping quick smart but struggled with how hot & humid it was, the sizes, and the fact that I couldn’t be bothered. So I ended up with just a rash vest and a new found appreciation for shop air conditioning.

sightseeing

Since I was out’n’about I decided to explore somewhere new (although I’d come for sport my travel bug got the better of me!) I’d read that Sanur was nice so hopped in a taxi there (R50) and ‘did’ the ocean walk I’d read about. It was gorgeous: a view out to the islands, gentle lapping waves, trees blowing, dry grainy sand, beautiful hotels, resorts and little shops & cafes / bars on one side of the path, and watersports stuff, loungers & umbrellas on the beach side. It was much quieter than where I was staying, very relaxed and peaceful. If you just wanted to hang out looking at the ocean this would be the place in Bali to do it.

I strolled along, got caught talking to a hawker (couldn’t avoid all of them!), stopped for a quick swim (the water was cooler and cleaner than my side), walked some more, stopped for a drink on the beach (banana juice just like Vietnam, yum), found to my horror that I was listening to someone play guitar on the beach (and, most shocking of all, I think I was enjoying it!), walked some more, decided I was done, and caught a taxi back to Kuta (R50).

if you can’t beat ‘em

Unfortunately I got dropped at the southern end of Kuta beach, which was heaving with tourists and vendors. And by the time I got to ‘my’ beach I thought the surf looked a bit too small to be bothered with. The surf board guys agreed (although some of that was with the motive of getting me to sit down and chat). So, I felt pretty despondent: no board shorts and no surf. Sometimes you have to give in to the visitor-vibe don’t you… so I cashed in my free leg & foot massage at the hotel – can’t really visit South East Asia without having a massage – and hopped in a taxi to Jimbaran because I’d heard it was good for sunset and seafood bbq.

Jimbaran

So I got a driver (R50 each way – you’ve realised by now that everything is R50 right.?) and battled the ridiculous traffic to get there. The roads in Bali are mostly one way, it’s only a little island so pretty much the whole place is a one way system with very little road management (lights etc) so all chaotic and jammed.

Along Jimbaran oceanfront there is a row of restaurants, all doing the same: locally caught seafood, bar-b-qued and served right on the beach. So I was actually glad that my driver had ‘booked’ me a table, otherwise known as chosen which restaurant I’d go to (Cafe Ayodya), because I don’t know how I would have selected! He was gonna wait for me, well for the fare home (R50).

I went in and they picked a table right up and set it down on the beach front, cool cos I was right at the front, an unbroken view of the bay. I got beer & nuts and took the scene in, it was beautiful, the sun was setting – not as spectacular as yesterday but still gorgeous. Jimbaran is a fishing village so there were boats in the bay, all twinkling, the waves were lapping, ok, so there was loads of crap all over the beach (coconuts etc) and a few stray dogs lulling around but it was just perfect, I was SO happy.

Bali flavours #2

The menu was a list of fresh caught seafood and you had to do that thing where you go and select the specific little sucker that you’re gonna have for dinner. I was feeling a bit queasy about this and my waitress (we’d been chatting) was lovely and quite literally held my hand as I selected! I’d never had lobster before and this seemed like the time, but I bailed on choosing a live one and instead chose a ‘sleeping’ one.

You pay for your seafood by weight and apparently the accuracy of the scales is a local joke. I find it funny when you’re away and people think they’re really getting one over on you but it amounts to like $5 or something so who cares.

Back at my table I was served tuna chilli soup, then the main courses came and it was phenomenal! I’d ordered squid as well as the lobster, I really like bbq-ed squid, especially the sticky tentacles! And they came with garlic vegetables and nice salad. It was completely heaven, I don’t think I drew breathes between bites. Cos I was so happy n having a nice time I ordered more beer and just hung out writing and pondering and smiling. I must have been a while cos my driver came down to the beach to check I was still there! He didn’t mind or anything that I’d been ages and we just sat talking which I thought was pretty cool.

Saturday

forced to relax

Woke up at 9am with a pretty shabby hangover because I’d ended up meeting friends and having a massive night. Given the amount of booze and the lack of sleep I was impressed it wasn’t worse. Went straight to breakfast and destroyed an absolute mountain of food, I was no longer embarrassed by this!

Eventually I mustered the energy and interest to go out. I walked up the beach to where I’d been surfing on Thursday, got lunch, read the Economist (there is clearly no time when this is inappropriate), then got a sun lounger and slept for an hour or so. It started to rain a bit which, if anything, was quite refreshing. I decided to head back to the hotel and thought I’d take myself out for a run (my will power for relaxing had subsided!) but on the way back the rain really came down. It was mad, everything was flooded, but it was still warm and everyone just carried on as normal, quite funny.

I got showered, hit the bar for a couple and then hung out in my room watching Jimmy Neutron & Run Fat Boy Run. I always say (like the average meal theory) that no matter where I go, how long for etc, I’m always guaranteed to have a night in…

Sunday

Woke up quite early, feeling smashing and was in the surf by 7am. The waves were lovely, it was quite low tide so there weren’t many people out, and it was beautifully sunny with some clouds. I was wearing my new rash vest so felt pretty smart; and the friends from Friday night had told me that girls shouldn’t wear board shorts (they’re meant for boys) and so I no longer cared that I didn’t have any.

breaking records

I had the most excellent time, caught some crackers and also concentrated a lot on my technique. Since I’d been using these plastic boards I’d noticed that I used my knees to stand up more than I thought I did. There’s no getting away from it on a plastic board because if you use your knees a lot it hurts and you get bruised. My knees were pink and purple, enough said. So I worked very hard on my ‘snap’ and on making sure my hands were flat on the top of the board when I snapped, not gripping the rails (edges) cos that’s bad technique – often makes you slip. This board was blue & white stripped and I liked it a lot (R50 for as long as I liked!). Actually when I hired it Andre, the surf board dude said “don’t drop in on anyone” – had he seen me yesterday?! He also told me that this bit of the beach was called ‘Halfway Break’, good local knowledge. This good thing happened where – for me – I just stayed in the water for ages; no injuries, no pain, a bit fatigued & hungry & distracted by the idea of breakfast but not sick of it at all. When I called it I’d been out for 1 hour 45, a record!

upping my game

Quick shower and change then breakfast for another mammoth session. After I’d destroyed yet another loaf of bread I hung out for a bit reading and drinking coffee. I actually sat in different cross legged yoga positions on the sofa to help ‘open’ my hips which is important for surfing, what a nerd. And reading the Economist! After a while I changed, creamed etc and went back to the beach. Andre was dead cool; cos I’d hired from him in the morning he said I could just pay R20 for as long as I wanted! Problerama though… my blue & white number was already out. Andre challenged me to take out the next size down. My board at home is around 8’6’’, the blue & white number had been 8’2’’, Andre was challenging me to the 7’6’’. I’d already said ‘yes’ when he added “if you’re serious about surfing Lucy, you’ll need to do this eventually” (remember what I said about this perhaps turning out well for me?!) Maybe cos I’d shown a bit of ‘spunk’ he then gave me a bit of a lesson on the sand, giving me advice on where to put my feet, what waves to catch, how to position myself on the board. He told me again if I was serious I should catch more green water, less white wash. Yes, Andre, of course, but it’s big and scary

Off I went and this board was wicked too. Again, the conditions were great. I was taking in the view too, this morning there was a half rainbow hanging between the clouds out at sea, gorgeous. I caught some crackers, including some green waves that I rode a long way (yee). I kept practising my snap and I tried to control the board to turn – it worked a little bit. This Balinese guy started chatting to me in the surf, he said he recognised me, and we established it was from being in the water earlier in the morning. I could not have felt cooler!!!

upping my game #2

After a bit I noticed that one of the fins on my board had come loose so I went back to Andre and he started tinkering away. I was being impatient so I asked for another board. He said I could take the 7’2’’ and gave me an impressed, ‘good spunk’ look. Yeah, but had I taken on too muc thought I’d take myselfnier as well as shorter (i.e. significantly less stable) oh well, gotta give it a try. And it went ok. I was standing up on the same amount of waves as before (I reckon), my snap was ok, it was definitely easier to paddle and manage the board and did I feel cooler, oh yeah! I caught this one excellent green wave and was so happy (I did a power grab in the shallow water!)

At one point I sort of wiped out on this wave with a bloke who I got chatting to, his name was Aleksay, he was Russian (“famous for beaches” we said at the same time) and he clearly thought I was hopeless cos he offered to hold my board white I waited for waves. Not a good look. I was no longer cool! His friend came along and swapped Aleksay’s board for his camera – to get photos for their blog. I went back to surfing solo only to realise that the Russian was now taking pictures of me. One can only assume their blog is whitegirlscan’tsurf.com.

When I was hungry again, despite my massive breakfast, I knew it was time to call it a day. Again, no injuries, no malaise etc and I’d been 2+ hours – so much record breaking in one day!! To top it Andre asked if I’d gone diagonal /sideways at all, I had and he asked which way, when I said back to wave he gave me the ‘impressed’ look again and said this was the “hard” way. Oh check me! (n.b. all these achievements are teeny tiny things, I am still incredibly hopeless and unimpressive but taking baby steps.)

More showering etc and then I had to get something to eat. I wanted to head up the beach but couldn’t be bothered to walk so caught a motorbike taxi (I love these). Bit embarrassing really cos I realised how much more there was to Bali than just the beaches I’d seen. We drove through little lanes and back streets with loads of shops & bars & restaurants. It was pretty interesting but can’t say I thought I’d missed anything – I’m so predictable in what I like. The motorbike ride was wicked fun though. Oh, and too funny, he told me it would be R50 for the ride – of course! I laughed in his face and we agreed on R25.

I wanted to find a hotel on the beachfront where I could hang for a while, I knew they were around but I had to stroll to find one. And I did. Plonked myself on a big sun lounger bed, ordered a cocktail (R50) and some food. I was pretty happy.

This had been a good day. And when my food came I was very amused because despite the elaborate menu description (why do they bother?) it was basically a filet-o-fish and fries, which suited me just fine, and meant that I was definitely a teenage surfer boy!! I’d eaten lunch, ordered a beer (R50 a pop for cocktails, I don’t think so) and was just hanging out when I had to move because there was a massive storm coming. I made the very obvious move to the beach bar – land side, away from the rain and settled in for a while. The rain was ridiculous, so heavy, everywhere was immediately flooded, and there was a bit of thunder and lightning. I’d got to the bar in time, others couldn’t get a seat, and just about everyone started racking in beers and nuts. Once the rain subsided I left and walked back along the beach to my hotel.

It was my last few hours and since there was time I sat at the hotel bar for a last large Bintang and nuts (or some sort of maize snack, I never established). The sun was setting and it was raining hard, so the scenery was very different. The ocean was glowing silver and the sky was like marble, there were people everywhere, just carrying on in the rain, it was ace.

I didn’t leave until as late as possible, the taxi driver tried to suggest I should pay R100 for the ride – was he not local? Did he not know the standard charge? – I insisted on the meter and surely enough it came to R56!!

conclusions

Well I’d definitely got a lot more than I expected from Bali: as well as the on-tap surf, I’d progressed on new boards, skirted around some sight seeing, tasted the incredible beach bar-b-q, had a massage, and absorbed way more of the Economist than anticipated…

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